A self drive in the salt flat region of Bolivia provides incomparable freedom and flexibility when visiting this stunning region of the world.

Disadvantages of a Catered Tour

Most people who visit Salar de Uyuni sign up for a hostel or hotel affiliated cookie cutter 1-3 day tour. All these tours follow the same routes, take the same pictures, stay at the same places, and stick to the same schedule. You want to stay longer on the flats and take more pictures? Too bad, tour needs to hit the next place. You want to go visit a natural pool at sunrise to get that perfect mirror picture? Nope, not on the tours schedule. Want to enjoy the stunning landscapes away from a mob of people? This is a damn tour group! Sorry. To each their own, but not exactly a DIY travelers cup of tea. Luckily there is a much better alternative: self driving.

Why self Drive

Self driving the Salar removes all the constraints of a catered tour. You can explore as long as you want, camp wherever you want, hike wherever you want, etc. – ultimate freedom. Not to mention split with a few friends it can even end up costing about identical to a tour. Of course driving yourself off road into a remote region of Bolivia sounds a bit intimidating – certainly justifiable. However, with some proper planning it is very straight forward to make this trip possible.

4x4 Rental

You need a 4×4 to drive visit the main attractions in Salar region of Bolivia. There are only a few companies in Bolivia who rent 4×4 vehicles and allow driving onto the flats. The cars need to be thoroughly cleaned of corrosive salt so it is not something all rental companions tolerate. The company I recommend is called Biz Rental Car based in Sucri. They have plenty of great condition 4×4’s of different sizes and can provide a GPS, extra fuel, maps, etc. to get you started. I used Biz for my self drive and thought they were great.

Is Driving 4x4 difficult?

Not really. Switching into and out of 4×4 is extremely straight forward and any rental company can assist you with the basics to get started. There is also no excessively difficult or technical 4×4 on the route. However, having an understanding how to drive manual is extremely valuable. It is difficult to find 4×4 automatics available for rent in Bolivia. Check with any renter before hand for availability, but don’t count on finding one . Additionally, reading about some basic guidelines for how to drive on rocks, sand, or loose salt can keep you out of any trouble. More on that below!

4x4 basics

For 95% of driving in Bolivia all you need is ordinary 2×4. Only when you encounter questionable road conditions should you consider switching the car to 4 wheel drive – no reason to use excess fuel if you don’t need to. There are two 4×4 modes in any 4 wheel drive vehicle – low 4 gear ratio and high 4 gear ratio. To keep things straight forward – the only thing you need to think about is this: If the conditions are kind of shit use high 4×4. If the conditions are REALLY shit aka rock crawling, climbing up steep hills, driving in thick salt / water, etc. use low 4×4. There are tons of good videos on youtube out there such as this that I recommend you watch to give you a basic understanding.

Important thing to note is for heightened security anytime you enter / exit the salt flat I recommend you switch the car into 4×4. 2nd gear High 4 should be more than suitable but if there is a lot of water than 2nd gear low 4 is a safer bet.

How Should I drive

Relatively straight forward here but drive slow! The road conditions on the Laguna Route are nothing short of horrendous. Speeding will risk severely damaging the vehicle. I recommend keeping the car at a maximum of 20-30 km per hour in this section and no faster than 35-40 km per hour on the salt flat. Tour group cars will blow past you pushing 60-80 km – Don’t follow their lead! Pull over wide when cars want to pass and use 4×4 liberally when there are questionable road conditions. I drove slow and steady over 5 days and didn’t have a problem. You don’t want to pay to replace a destroyed tire, windshield, etc.

Road conditions on Laguna Route can be rough

Best time of year to visit for a self drive

In general, unless you have very good 4×4 skills I recommend you visit in the dry season (May/June – November). The entrance points to the Salar get significantly more difficult to enter during the rainy season. Additionally, Biz Rent a car usually only let you drive on the Salar in the dry season. Of course the Salar is know for its stunning mirror affect in the rainy season. If you are really keen to see the mirror affect I recommend the following options:

Visit on the shoulder months of May/June. The entrance to the Salar should be manageable and there should still be plenty of water around to get some really nice reflection shots.
If you have very good 4×4 skills it may be possible to convince Biz otherwise. The entrance conditions vary year to year depending on precipitation so it isn’t necessarily out of the question to rent a car / easily access the flats in the heart of rainy season. Ask and see what happens – if it is a no go there are a few other companies based in La Paz you can turn to. Imbex rent a car is a possible alternative.
There is almost always some water on the perimeter of the flats. For example, I arrived in the middle of August and found plenty of stunning pools for reflection shots. On the map below I have a spot marked for where you may find these pools.

Rental car cost breakdown

See table below for an example cost breakdown for a rental 4×4. Biz charges a flat daily rate or weekly rate for their vehicles. You need about 5-6 days minimum to properly enjoy all the sights. However, I recommend you simply rent for 1 full week as the rate is similar for 1 week vs 5-6 days. All rentals include ~150 free KM per day. Beyond that they charge a fee per extra KM. To drive the full route below and see all the sites I recommend you budget a minimum of 750 KM extra. I drove very liberally over 5 days and ended up driving 1512 KM total. You also need to rent jerry cans for the Laguna Route and pay for a desalination clean if driving on the flats.

Ultimately the total cost for a rental is around $1000 for a week. Budget in food, fuel, etc. and it roughly works out to $1,300 total. Go ahead and split that with 3 fellow backpackers and it ends up being about $435 per person per week. When you compare this cost to guided tours it is about the same, with most guided tours costing $150-350 per person for only 3-5 days.

Logistics getting your 4x4 rental

Uyuni is the main hub where your 4×4 trip kicks off located about 350 km from Sucre and 550 km from La Paz. You have the following options to consider when picking up your 4×4:

If coming from La Paz, I recommend you have the company drop the 4×4 off in Uyuni for you, then you can drive it onward to Sucre for delivery. Sucre is a wonderful city and logical next destination on a trip through Bolivia.
If coming from Sucre I recommend you drive yourself to Uyuni, then have the company pick up the car there when fished with your trip. This is a better alternative if you wish to continue onwards by night bus to La Paz or elsewhere
You can arrange both delivery and pick up if neither of these options apply to you.

Possible Itinerary

Navigation resources

See map a possible 4×4 driving route. This route includes all of the main attractions on the Salar and the Laguna Route. Keep in mind some of these roads do not exist on google maps hence I recommend you use multiple different navigation apps in conjunction. If you are still confused, use google maps satellite view and you can clearly make out most of the 4×4 tracks.

The main navigation apps for a Bolivian 4×4 trip include Ioverlander, GoogleMaps, and MapsMe. Ioverlander is an absolute musts for navigating in Bolivia. Road conditions, camping spots, and off the beaten path attractions are all listed on the app. Internet service is widely unavailable in remote Bolivia so I recommend you download offline maps of the region.

CLICK HERE TO VIEW

Day 1 Sucre to Salar de Uyuni

Assuming you start in Sucre – pick up the car and get the payment settled first thing in the morning. From there start the 350 km ~6hour drive to Uyuni. This entire section of road is paved and easy to navigate. The views on the second half approaching the Salar are stunning. If you have an extra day and want to break up the trip you can stop over in Potosi to go on a silver mine tour.

After you arrive in the town of Uyuni make sure to fill your tank up before driving onto the flat. You don’t want to risk running out of fuel, or using the jerry cans which you will need during the Laguna route. There are plenty of markets in Uyuni if you need any last minute supplies. After fueling up, proceed up to the salt flats to catch the sunset.

How to Enter the Salt Flats

There are 3 main entrance and exit points onto the flats. To avoid getting the vehicle stuck it is important you enter / exit the flats at one of the designated entrance sites. Much of the Salar is surrounded in pools of water with loose salt / mud – it is extremely risky driving a car in these areas. If you stick to the designated entrance points you should have no issues. I mentioned before but anytime you enter / exit the salt flat I recommend you switch the car into 4×4. After clearing the perimeter of the flats the rest is smooth sailing.

The closest entrance to the salt flat from Uyuni is located in the small town of Colchani about 25 km north of Uyuni – see map. This is arguably the best condition entrance to the Salar. Note* if you have a 2×4 vehicle that is allowed to enter the salt flat I recommend you stick to just this entrance when entering / exiting.

Driving on the flats

The salt surface beyond the perimeter of the salar is rock solid and 2×4 ordinary driving is more than sufficient. You will also notice tons of pre ground tracks from frequent vehicle traffic (you can see them quite well on a google maps satellite also!). These are generally the easiest to drive on if you want to cover some ground. If you are just taking your time you can pretty much drive anywhere you damn want. Conditions are overall smooth and simple and it is quite difficult to get lost. If you do get lost resort to one of the many map apps at your disposal or follow the pre-ground tracks – they almost always lead to one of the main attractions or an entrance / exit.

Where to stay

This may sound miserable to some but I whole heartedly recommend either camping or sleeping in the car out in the middle of the flat. Although I was freezing my ass off and didn’t sleep worth shit the experience was 10/10 incredible. Alone on that flat out under the stars was one of the most amazing experiences I’ve ever had. Bring a sleeping bag and plenty of warm clothes. A case or two of beer is also nice to suppress the cold.

If you are really anti car sleep you can crash in a homestay or at one of the many salt hotels near Colchani. Most of the salt hotels are too expensive for my taste, but I had a friend who stayed at Hotel de Sal Luna Salada and highly recommended it. Not often can you stay at a hotel made of salt! Another option is to return to Uyuni after sunset. However this is probably your worst option as Uyuni is a bit out of the way and a rather unappealing place.

Day 2-3/4 Salar De Uyuni

Each day on the flats wake up bright and early to catch the sunrise. Sunrise and sunset are the two most spectacular times on the salt flat and are not to be missed! On your first full day you can cross the flat toward Volcán Tunupa and the north exit or drive toward the cactus islands in the center. While I recommend a minimum of at least one full day on the Salar, 2-3+ is better if you want to do some hiking / take your time to enjoy the stunning landscapes.

North Side

On the north side of the flat there are a few attractions worth visiting.

North Exit: There are two exits on the north side of the Salar. Both are possible options however I recommend the exit on the east side near the village Tahua (see map). It generally is a safer bet. The village is a cool place to check out and the small road between Tunupa and Coqueza village is stunning. There are tons of llamas and vicuna around with an endless salt backdrop.
Hike Volcan Tunupa: If you are keen to break up the driving you can take a day to climb up to Tunupa Volcano Crater. This is a long hike so I recommend you start early and give yourself a full day if you want to reach the summit. The trailhead is located down a dirt road north of Coqueza village. There is a small community fee to access the trail (30 BOB) – totally worth it for the panoramic views at the end. Keep in mind the altitude is very high! – 5100 M.
Reflection Pools: Just besides the north exit to the Salar there are some beautiful pools of water for reflection pics. Even in peak dry season the water seems to remain in these areas. I recommend the pools for sunrise, where you can catch the sun reflecting perfectly over the water.

Where to stay:

As always, car sleep or camp is a fine option. Camping near the reflection pools at the north exit is a great spot so you are ready for sunrise the next day. If you don’t want to camp both Tunupa and Coqueza village have plenty of cheap home-stays available. You should be able to book a place on arrival no problem. Given how small these towns are most hotels are not on booking – however some of the more well reviewed are Tayka de Sal hotel or Hospedaje Jesus in Coqueza village.

Central Salar

In central Salar there are several famous cactus islands, the most popular being Isla Incahuasi with a parking area, small walking trail, and hundreds of cactus to hike between. Only downside to the island is that there is a small fee (30 BOB PP) to enter and at times can have other tourists around. Alternatively there is Isla del Pescado located north west of Isla Incahuasi. This island region is less frequented by tourist vehicles and offers similar views to Isla Incahuasi. Although no formal walking trails there are still plenty of cactus and hiking opportunities available. If short on time you can decide between the two of these, otherwise try to visit both.

Where to stay

There are no formal accommodation options available in the center of the Salar. I recommend you either car camp or proceed to the north or south exit for accommodation. If continuing onward to the Laguna Route the accommodation on the south side is a better option. Like north side most of these hotels are not on booking. There are many options available on the south side of the flats. Don Carlos Salt Hotel is right beside the south exit or you can proceed to Hotel de Sal “Samarikuna” located a few KM down the road.

Day 5 Salar de Uyuni to Laguna Route

From the salar you can exit from either the original entrance at Colchani or from South Side exit. Regardless of where you exit from be sure to stop at the last gas station in San Cristóbal. There are no others beyond this point and you will need to use at least part of one jerry can to complete the Laguna Loop. There are also several markets in San Cristóbal to restock up on supplies as needed.

The Laguna route has two entrance points along route 701 interstate and can be completed in either direction depending on preference / timing. The laguna route takes a minimum of 3 days round trip from Uyuni – however 4-5 may be better if you want to take your time / do some hiking.

Assume you enter the first entrance a good first stop to spend the night is Villamar Mallcu. There are a few overnight accommodation options available in the town. Be WELL prepared when entering Laguna Route. There are little to no markets available for supplies and the road conditions are awful the entire way – Drive Slow! Bring plenty of cash to pay park fees and for overnight accommodation, most places do not accept credit card.

Ordinary road conditions along the Laguna Route

Day 6 Villa Mallcu to Laguna Colorada

Proceeding past Villa Mallcu you will enter Eduardo Avaroa Andean National Reserve. Entrance fee is 150 BOB per person – bring cash and keep ticket! You need to show it again when leaving the park. The entire drive through the park is stunning however there are a few must visit spots you will pass in the following order:

Termas de Polques: a beautiful hot spring to go for a swim. You do need to pay a small fee to use the pools however the views from the Termas are stunning! Free if you just want to take a photo and walk around.
Laguna Verde: Arguably the most stunning Laguna on the loop – the alpine lake located right beside the Chile border has a sharp green color with a huge volcano in the backdrop. If you have an extra day it is possible to climb this Volcano. Be well acclimated for the high altitude ~5.9k meters.
Sol de Mañana: This geothermal area is an absolute must visit – including impressive bubbling mud pits, geysers, and steam vents. Unlike the guided trails and fences of Yellowstone, this remote geothermal spring is practically devoid of rules. Just be extremely careful when approaching the vents!
Laguna Colorada: A logical first or last stop for the day – Laguna Colorada has a beautiful reddish brown tint from the algae in the water. There are also plenty of flamingos around for some nice photos.

Where to stay

Nearby Laguna Colorada there is a small turn off with many accommodation options available. As always you should be able to find space booking on arrival. Alternatively there are a few hotels nearby Termas de Polques. Wild camping anywhere and everywhere is an option – however the high altitude in most of this region makes it extremely cold at night. Be prepared!

Day 7 Laguna Colorada to Uyuni

Proceeding north past Laguna Colorada you will exit the Eduardo Avaroa Andean National Reserve. Be a bit cautious along this section as there is not exactly a formal road – only dozens of pre-ground trails from other vehicles. All of the trails lead in the same direction toward the laguna route exit. Use MapsMe, GoogleMaps, etc. and you will have no issues. This stretch of road is spectacular with plenty of wonderful attractions:

Árbol de Piedra: A beautiful rock formation / area to walk around – it is nice spot to enjoy the sunrise before proceeding north.
Jewels of the Andes: A stretch of several beautiful lagoons hugging the Chile border. Laguna Hedionda is one of the most famous know for its thousands of flamingos. There is also a nearby hotel – Los Flamencos Eco Hotel if you are seeking overnight accommodation.

Leaving at sunrise you should have sufficient time before sunset to reach Uyuni from Laguna Colorada. The rental company can then pick up the car that evening. I recommend you proceed directly to a night bus from there! It is a better alternative than being stuck a day in Uyuni.

Alternative Destination:

If you have more time there are a few other alternative routes and destinations you can visit on a Bolivian 4×4 trip:

Uyuni Train Graveyard: In the town of Uyuni there is an abandoned train graveyard many tours visit for some fun photo ops. If you have extra time on your last day it may be worth visiting, but I wouldn’t go out of your way. There is trash everywhere and other draws of the region are just way more appealing.
Tupiza to Laguna Route: There is a long, incredibly rough 4×4 track that connects Laguna route region to the town of Tupiza, essentially paralleling the Argentina border. While I never personally have driven this section I have heard great things about this remote region. If you have an extra day or 2 and keen for an adventure it is a possible alternative loop.
Cross into Chile: Right near Laguna Verde you can cross the border into San Pedro De Atacama region of Chile. There are 4-5 days worth of activities here however a 4×4 is not necessary to explore in Chile. Rather than spend the extra $ it makes more sense to switch over to a more affordable 2×4 rental.

Packing List

You need to be well prepared when spending multiple days in the Bolivian wilderness. The region has very high altitude and is incredibly cold at night – you NEED to pack warm especially if you plan to camp or sleep in the car.

Food / Water: Budget 5L of water per person per day away from cities, non perishable food such as peanut butter, bread, nuts, biscuits etc. The car is fairly cold most of the time so we found lunch meat / cheese to be okay for 1-2 days in the car. A case of beer is nice to have also 😉
Sleeping bag, sleeping pad, tent: If you plan to sleep in the car each night you can scrap the tent / sleeping pad (we didn’t use either at all). Sleeping bag I highly recommend if planning to sleep in the car.
Warm clothes, thermal shirts, winter jacket, etc.
Travel pillow / camping pillow: Good to have for car sleep
Diamox: Medicine to treat altitude sickness. I recommend you bring some in case anyone suffers AMS symptoms. Several places on Laguna route cross over 5000 meters.
Cash – expect to pay for anything and everything in cash. Park entrance fees, accommodation, road tolls, etc. Bring plenty extra in case of an emergency – car gets stuck and you need someone to tow you out!

Questions?

Hope this helped get you started on a Bolivian 4×4 adventure. Feel free to DM me on instagram or drop a comment if you need any advice or tips for your self drive or in Bolivia!